Skomer – a jewel on the Pembrokeshire coast
by Phil Collier

We were up early for the journey west to Pembrokeshire to catch the first boat from Martins Haven. The sun was rising and it looked like the optimism generated by the weather forecasters was justified. Our destination - Skomer.

Skomer lies just to the southwest of the Marloes peninsula cut off from mainland Pembrokeshire by Jack Sound, a narrow stretch of water renowned for its strong tidal currents. This small island covers only 730 acres but it is a breeding haven for many different seabirds – and to photograph these was the reason for our visit. 

I love islands! My younger brother and I were brought up on the coast of Lancashire and invariably spent holidays on the west coasts of Scotland and Wales, gaining an invaluable grounding in the natural world from a young age and have spent many holidays on islands off the UK coast, watching and photographing the wildlife.

As this was April, the target species were Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes and, offshore, the spectacular Gannets. A trip later in the season would bring Storm Petrels and the enigmatic nocturnal wailings of Manx Shearwaters – Skomer is the most important breeding site in the world for this species, with somewhere in the region of 165,000 pairs nesting in the island’s rabbit burrows. 

For now though we joined other members of the public on board the Dale Princess for the short, 15 minute hop across Jack Sound. Once on the island we chatted with the warden and then took in our surroundings. After studying the OS map to decide which way to work the island to the best effect of both the light and the wildlife, we set off towards the farm in the centre of the island – a landmark from times past. Skomer is said to have supported an Iron Age community of 200 people although later on, in the seventh century, a modern field system was put in place in the centre of the island and this supported a single farm until 1950 when the island was sold.

Just beyond the farmhouse we spooked a Short-eared Owl, which flew up across the field and landed on a post some forty metres ahead of us. We stood transfixed and stared through our bins as it glared back as if to say ‘how dare you disturb me from my mid-morning siesta’. Slow and stealthy stalking brought me within twenty metres of the owl and looking through my 500mm lens into those bright yellow eyes I was able to run off eight frames before the bird took off to fly across the fields and out of sight behind the farm buildings once more.

A steady walk took us on to the north of the island overlooking the Garland Stone – an offshore stack around which grey seals breed in the autumn. Skomer boasts the second largest colony of breeding greys in Wales with only Ramsey Island, a few miles further north hosting more. Even in April there were plenty of seals on show. On the Garland Stone itself were nesting Guillemots and Razorbills together with a small number of Kittiwakes. Some of the larger gulls were also present here at the north end of the island – Herring and both Great and Lesser black-backed – as were Puffins, scurrying to and fro still nest building at this time.

Offshore there were feeding Gannets from the island of Grasholm, seven miles to the west of Skomer, and at one point a Peregrine flew past so quickly that we almost missed it. Ravens were fairly common and we also saw a chough that had probably flown across from its breeding territory on the Marloes peninsula.  

Being spring there were a number of migrant passerines present, although these were not as plentiful as I believe on some days. Meadow Pipits were all over – they breed on the island – and there were good numbers of Wheatears looking resplendent in their fresh breeding plumage. Linnets and Goldfinches flitted about in the sunshine with a small number of House Sparrows and starlings around the farm. 

Our final destination was The Wick, a deep almost fjord-like inlet on the southwest of the island. This is the favourite haunt of the majority of the day-trippers as here they can literally walk amongst the nesting Puffins. No long lenses needed here and it is a rare chance with birds to try some artistic and alternative shots such as capturing the Puffins as they spread their wings to create the parachute effect on coming to land.

Sadly, the last boat leaves the island at 3pm so, having used every last minute – and more! - of our available time, a rather brisk trot took us back to North Haven to board the Dale Princess once again. Looking west as we sailed across Jack Sound, there were some superb views of Skomer’s cliffs and stacks silhouetted against the sun. 

The early start was well worth it and both Skomer and its close neighbour, Skokholm are well worth a visit. You can book to stay on either island but the accommodation is basic and in short supply.  Both islands are managed by The Wildlife Trust of South & West Wales and visiting arrangements can be made through them by calling 01656 724 100.