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North Uist, Outer Hebrides
by Colin Smith FRPS
Situated out in the Atlantic ocean, west of Skye and the Scottish mainland, the Outer Hebrides consist of a string of small islands receiving all the weather the Atlantic can throw at them. This varies from severe winter gales to balmy sunny weather interspersed with heavy rain at almost anytime of the year. For anyone wanting to visit somewhere unspoiled, quiet and out of the way, then the Outer Hebrides may be for them. Probably due to the remoteness of the islands and the low population, there is a varied and prolific amount of natural history interest in the form of many species of breeding birds and mammals, with a good sprinkling of interesting flora and insect life to be found. There are no high mountains on the island, the highest point being around 3,000 feet and that is a ‘one off’ hill. The island has many small fresh water lochans surrounded by wet moorland, as well as some more typical heather moorland on the higher ground. There are few trees due to poor soil and the strong winds which are a regular feature of the weather here. The white shell beaches are magnificent and, for the most part, empty of people. It is possible to walk for miles, without seeing another person, with just the sea, the wind and the birds for company. North Uist is connected to Benbecula and South Uist by causeways along which you can easily drive if you wish to visit these two islands.
My visit to North Uist was made in June 2006. We broke our outward journey at Ft. William spending the night in a B&B and then driving to Uig on the far side of Skye to pick up the ferry the next day. The crossing was smooth and took about two and a half hours. On arrival at our cottage, after we had unloaded the car, we lit a fire in the stove and generally settled in for our first night of our two week stay. At this point I would like to remind you of the very hot and dry weather the mainland enjoyed over this two week period. It was different on North Uist! We did have some sunshine but generally it was cloudy and sometimes drizzly. However we made full use of the time we had there, getting out of bed at 6 every morning.
Each morning was different, we saw Red Deer, Curlew, a Hen Harrier once or twice, but always Short-eared Owls quartering the moor in search of Voles. Sometimes these magnificent birds landed on roadside posts and occasionally stayed long enough for a picture - I had my 500mm lens and bean bag at the ready each morning for just such an opportunity. A few times I was able to photograph them perched on a heather tussock (a much more natural perch), and on one occasion I managed some flight shots as well. This is when using a digital camera allowed me to take shots I would otherwise have missed with my film camera. I set the ISO to 400 as the light level was quite low at times and coupled with the 1.6 magnification effect of my 20D camera, my 500mmm f4 lens became an 800mm f4 lens - mind blowing or what?
Another favourite haunt was the RSPB reserve at Balranald. The road leading to the reserve is lined with fence posts which were often occupied by Redshank with young nearby or by a few Common Snipe looking out for danger in protection of their young. On arrival at the reserve Centre on one occasion I saw a couple of other photographers with long lenses and tripods trained onto the garden area next to the Centre. I soon discovered they were photographing a Corncrake which was behaving in a very un-Corncrake manner. Instead of hearing the call but not seeing the bird, which is the usual scenario, this individual stood proudly on a rock in full view and called for minutes at a time allowing us to take pictures from about 15 feet away. From the Centre it is possible to drive towards the coast, through the machair and park near some dunes and then walk around the coast. The machair is itself very interesting; oats and potatoes are grown in what appears to be pure sand. It is fertilised by collecting seaweed which storms throw up the beaches each winter and this is enough to enable crops to grow. Amongst the crops are Dune Pansies and Northern Marsh Orchids, very stunted due to the windy conditions, and also Rock Doves feeding on whatever seeds they can find. It is alleged these are pure Rock Doves as many less isolated colonies have interbred with feral pigeons.
On a walk around the coast we encountered a variety of waders including Dunlin, Redshank, Oystercatcher and Ringed Plover, many of which were nesting or had young nearby suggested by their aggressive behaviour towards our presence. In one place near a small lochan we found a colony of Arctic Terns which were breeding. Common Gull and Fulmar were also present, the latter nesting on some low cliffs. Out at sea we saw a Red-throated Diver and Gannets fishing; Raven and Buzzard were never far away. On the rocks we saw Wheatear and Rock Pipit carrying food to feed to their offspring in some sheltered hole or rock crevice. North Uist is a very quiet island and when driving there are few other vehicles on the roads, on Sundays there are none at all except for the occasional visitor. The Islanders respect the Sabbath, do no work and seemingly rarely leave their homes.
The whole fortnight was most enjoyable - North Uist is a place I would happily return to and I can recommend it to all who enjoy peace, tranquillity and an abundance of wildlife.
by Colin Smith FRPS
Situated out in the Atlantic ocean, west of Skye and the Scottish mainland, the Outer Hebrides consist of a string of small islands receiving all the weather the Atlantic can throw at them. This varies from severe winter gales to balmy sunny weather interspersed with heavy rain at almost anytime of the year. For anyone wanting to visit somewhere unspoiled, quiet and out of the way, then the Outer Hebrides may be for them. Probably due to the remoteness of the islands and the low population, there is a varied and prolific amount of natural history interest in the form of many species of breeding birds and mammals, with a good sprinkling of interesting flora and insect life to be found. There are no high mountains on the island, the highest point being around 3,000 feet and that is a ‘one off’ hill. The island has many small fresh water lochans surrounded by wet moorland, as well as some more typical heather moorland on the higher ground. There are few trees due to poor soil and the strong winds which are a regular feature of the weather here. The white shell beaches are magnificent and, for the most part, empty of people. It is possible to walk for miles, without seeing another person, with just the sea, the wind and the birds for company. North Uist is connected to Benbecula and South Uist by causeways along which you can easily drive if you wish to visit these two islands.
My visit to North Uist was made in June 2006. We broke our outward journey at Ft. William spending the night in a B&B and then driving to Uig on the far side of Skye to pick up the ferry the next day. The crossing was smooth and took about two and a half hours. On arrival at our cottage, after we had unloaded the car, we lit a fire in the stove and generally settled in for our first night of our two week stay. At this point I would like to remind you of the very hot and dry weather the mainland enjoyed over this two week period. It was different on North Uist! We did have some sunshine but generally it was cloudy and sometimes drizzly. However we made full use of the time we had there, getting out of bed at 6 every morning.
Each morning was different, we saw Red Deer, Curlew, a Hen Harrier once or twice, but always Short-eared Owls quartering the moor in search of Voles. Sometimes these magnificent birds landed on roadside posts and occasionally stayed long enough for a picture - I had my 500mm lens and bean bag at the ready each morning for just such an opportunity. A few times I was able to photograph them perched on a heather tussock (a much more natural perch), and on one occasion I managed some flight shots as well. This is when using a digital camera allowed me to take shots I would otherwise have missed with my film camera. I set the ISO to 400 as the light level was quite low at times and coupled with the 1.6 magnification effect of my 20D camera, my 500mmm f4 lens became an 800mm f4 lens - mind blowing or what?
Another favourite haunt was the RSPB reserve at Balranald. The road leading to the reserve is lined with fence posts which were often occupied by Redshank with young nearby or by a few Common Snipe looking out for danger in protection of their young. On arrival at the reserve Centre on one occasion I saw a couple of other photographers with long lenses and tripods trained onto the garden area next to the Centre. I soon discovered they were photographing a Corncrake which was behaving in a very un-Corncrake manner. Instead of hearing the call but not seeing the bird, which is the usual scenario, this individual stood proudly on a rock in full view and called for minutes at a time allowing us to take pictures from about 15 feet away. From the Centre it is possible to drive towards the coast, through the machair and park near some dunes and then walk around the coast. The machair is itself very interesting; oats and potatoes are grown in what appears to be pure sand. It is fertilised by collecting seaweed which storms throw up the beaches each winter and this is enough to enable crops to grow. Amongst the crops are Dune Pansies and Northern Marsh Orchids, very stunted due to the windy conditions, and also Rock Doves feeding on whatever seeds they can find. It is alleged these are pure Rock Doves as many less isolated colonies have interbred with feral pigeons.
On a walk around the coast we encountered a variety of waders including Dunlin, Redshank, Oystercatcher and Ringed Plover, many of which were nesting or had young nearby suggested by their aggressive behaviour towards our presence. In one place near a small lochan we found a colony of Arctic Terns which were breeding. Common Gull and Fulmar were also present, the latter nesting on some low cliffs. Out at sea we saw a Red-throated Diver and Gannets fishing; Raven and Buzzard were never far away. On the rocks we saw Wheatear and Rock Pipit carrying food to feed to their offspring in some sheltered hole or rock crevice. North Uist is a very quiet island and when driving there are few other vehicles on the roads, on Sundays there are none at all except for the occasional visitor. The Islanders respect the Sabbath, do no work and seemingly rarely leave their homes.
The whole fortnight was most enjoyable - North Uist is a place I would happily return to and I can recommend it to all who enjoy peace, tranquillity and an abundance of wildlife.